An Irresistible Allure: If you anchor on the island of Premuda, you will be closer to the open sea than at any other anchorage in the Adriatic. It is definitely one of the most intriguing, picturesque and enigmatic small Adriatic ports
It is always nice to sail a different route than most people take. Sailing from the island of Murter to the North Adriatic is certainly such a journey. That is why our editorial trio was justifiably excited when we set out from the Marina Betina in late June of last year toward Premuda and Silba, two beautiful small islands along the route of those sailing south from Istria or Kvarner, which are often reached from the marinas in Zadar but are not a frequent destination for those who maintain their vessels south of Šibenik.
These islands lack the old harbors and coastal settlements we have become accustomed to on the nearby islands of Lošinj, Cres, Krk or Rab. On the contrary, their inhabitants built their scattered houses on the elevations away from the sea. Only in this era of modern tourism, when fewer people live here year round, and the numbers of tourists and sailors are increasing, have houses been built along the enchanting shorelines, which are characterized by a special ambience.
The island of Premuda has one of the most intriguing, picturesque and enigmatic small Adriatic ports
The pristine beauty of all the offshore Adriatic islands is captivating, an attraction difficult to describe to those who have not experienced it. Is it the attraction of the open sea, that positive adrenaline rush brought on by the immense and powerful sea, or is it the sense of security that these islands provide? It is difficult to analyze but the attraction is irresistible.
That is precisely what you will experience if you tie your vessel to a buoy in front of the small harbor of Krijal on the island of Premuda. If you anchor here, you will be closer to the open sea than at any other anchorage on the Adriatic. It is definitely one of the most intriguing, picturesque and enigmatic small Adriatic ports. From southern to the western sides, Krijal is protected by cliffs, lined up like a mighty shield. However, even at first glance it will be clear to you that they yield under strong southern or northwestern gusts of wind.
Cliffs, Buoys, and Solitude: The Tranquil Waters of Premuda
The largest cliff, Masarine, gives its name to the entire group, though each has its own: Hripa, Plitka Sika, Bračić, and Mala Sika. These cliffs, together with the coast, create a lagoon where the sea shimmers in every shade of blue. It reaches depths of no more than five meters. The seabed alternates between sand and Poseidon grass. The constant current keeps the water exceptionally clear, making for a glorious swimming experience. Whether you dive off your boat or take a dinghy to the reef, it’s a delightful experience.
In the channel between Premuda and the line of cliffs, there are many buoys. Some are closer to the cliffs, especially off Masarine, where there is a nice beach. Others are nearer to Premuda and the port of Krijal. Although the concessionaire from Silba, who manages the anchorage, is entitled to anchor 69 buoys, we found only about twenty. That was enough for the dozen sailboats and small motorboats anchored that day along Premuda. We also saw a few more in the coves of Premuda and Zaporat. These spots were chosen by those who enjoy total solitude and quiet. They provide good protection from the north wind and, depending on where the anchor is dropped, from the mistral and south winds. The area also has nice beaches. At one time, an entire fleet of domestic sailing vessels was tied up in the bay of Premuda, but they have long since disappeared.
In the harbor of Krijal – as close to the open sea as possible
Workers constructed a new catamaran and ferry pier west of the old harbor in Krijal. They surrounded it with breakwaters where locals now tie up their boats. Previously, the pier stood on the northern side of the island in the cove of Loza. Even today, sailors sometimes use it during storms from the south. The Church of St. Cyriacus (Sveti Krijal, St. Cirijac) stands in the harbor. It served as the parish church until the eighteenth century. A cemetery lies next to the church. Local fishermen regularly sail into the harbor, offering fresh fish for sale.
Overlooking the harbor are the restaurants Masarine and Kod Celestina. These are the only places where those who sail here can socialize and dine. We chose Veljko Žuvanić’s Masarine, which has a long tradition. Before the restaurant opened, these premises were occupied by the fishermen’s cooperative, founded in 1903. In the neighboring building is an old oil mill, with rooms for socializing upstairs. This already indicates that despite Premuda’s sparse population and location at the very edge of the open sea, if those who sail here are not too demanding, they can find everything they need on the mainland. Along the way, like us, they can chat with the local people, including those who come here during the summer for seasonal work.
The center of the town is located on a hill, 70 meters above sea level
We became acquainted with Milenko Kojić, a cook who has been coming for the past seven years to work for three months a year in a local restaurant. He calls himself a seasonal resident of Premuda. The lovely waitress, Nina Rale, comes here from Novi Sad. She intends to work in cyclotourism one day. The next day, they were going to be joined by Stipe Kozul from Ražanac, who lives in town (Zadar). We met him that day in the shade of a pine tree in front of a minimarket that operates in two shifts, only during the summer. There are also seasonal employees in the store, Lucija and Ema, the former, who comes here in the summer to visit her grandmother, and the latter, who comes to see her grandmother and grandfather, thereby combining work with pleasure.
Premuda is an island where 50 to 60 inhabitants live year round, not in Krijal but in the center of the town on a hill about 70 meters above sea level. The highest peak on Premuda, Vrh, is only 88 meters above sea level. There is a sign showing the harbor of Loza, the Church of St. James, an out-patient clinic, post office and tourism information center. Some prankster added a panel marked here and there, with arrows that send you in a certain direction.
Postal worker, agent and Uncle (Barba) Leo
The clinic with a sign reading 1986 was closed, the church was closed and we could not locate the tourism information center but the post office was open, where we found everything that interested us. The postal clerk, Meri Lukin, knew the answers to all our questions. She was so delightful that we sent postcards from the island. The post office is in a rented space. Upstairs was a center where young people gather during the summer. We learned that a priest comes from Silba every Sunday, as does a physician, but not on Sundays.
Meri keeps the keys to the Church of St. James, allowing us to take a look inside. She splits her time between working as a postal clerk and selling ferry and catamaran tickets as an agent for Jadrolinija. In front of the post office, a spacious square stretches out, its surface visibly affected by months of drought and heat. Cypress branches partially obscure a neglected monument, while a rusted stone crusher, draped in a disintegrating tarpaulin that barely conceals an old ARAN motor, blends into the worn-down surroundings. Only the relentless chirping of crickets added rhythm to the stifling summer day.
“Now I’ll call Barba Leo. He knows everything!”
When we told Meri we wanted to meet older islanders who could share stories about life in Premuda, she immediately responded, “Now I’ll call Barba Leo. He knows everything!” Even though it was his dinnertime, Barba Leo—full name Leon Smirčić—hopped on his motorcycle and rode over to meet us. A former sailor, he had spent years working on a tanker that regularly stopped at Adriatic and Mediterranean ports. Since the construction of the ferry pier in Krijal, he has noticed slow but steady progress on the island. Islanders have built about thirty new houses and renovated as many old ones. However, only three or four families have a member with a job, and even then, it’s part-time, meaning they earn only half a salary.
In the center of Premuda
In the past, islanders raised sheep and crafted high-quality cheese, much like the kind made on the island of Pag. They cultivated potatoes and various other vegetables. Farmers sent their olives to Zadar for processing into premium oil. For generations, the people of Premuda worked as seafarers, building an enviable fleet that kept emigration lower than on other Adriatic islands. Electricity finally reached the island in 1971. Premuda’s first settlers, skilled stone cutters, quarried stone and produced lime. Their main harbor was Loza.
The fishermen had their storage sheds in today’s Krijal. For Loza, the biggest problem was the north wind, bura, and for Krijal, the worst was the levant (pulentada). Barba Leo expressed this vividly: The pulentada stirs up chaos in the harbor. Slovenians, Austrians, and Germans make up the majority of visitors to Premuda. We visited the store, which was much larger than the summer minimarket in Krijal. In its shaded entrance, two like-minded locals passionately debated politics, local elections, results, and the unprincipled coalitions formed by the parties they had supported.
Life on Premuda: City Vibes in a Small Island Setting
One would say that everything is the same as in a large city, only on a smaller scale! While we were walking through the streets of Premuda, which meandered among gardens and were ornamented by numerous oleanders in full bloom and an abundance of wild plum trees, a maintenance team from Zadar suddenly appeared to mow the already dry grass and also transport garbage from the island on a special ferry line. Like us, they sought refreshments at the restaurant Masarine.
The previous evening, Milenko Kojić had masterfully grilled a sea bass for us, and Nina served it. We learned that the owner of the restaurant, Veljko Žuvanić, produces island gin, Luftbremzer gin. Tasting Adriatic island gin is an interesting experience. After enjoying grilled sea bass the night before, we craved fried smelts for lunch. The two types of fish differed significantly, but the meal did not disappoint us at all! Promising ourselves to return, we set sail contentedly toward Silba.
Text: Braslav Karlić and Marko Vučetić
Photos: Mladen Šćerbe and Marin Srzić
